We can’t all do a Sheena Matheiken (of Uniform Project), who wore a single Little Black Dress for a whole year. She styled it (there were a few of the same) differently each day, with clothes or accessories that were vintage, handmade, reused or donated. Though it happened several years ago, it drew attention to what Greenpeace still highlights under its Detox my Fashion campaign: that we shop not for need, but for ‘social and emotional reasons’.
Sarah Ditty, who heads policy at the UK-based Fashion Revolution, a coalition of people across the garment and allied industries and services, calls for a systemic reform of the fashion supply chain. India, she feels, must wake up to the fact that we have every part of the fashion value chain — growers, spinners, weavers, dyers, printers and manufactures — unlike the West, which has lost its handmade garment producing skill. Excerpts from a chat:
What is a hold-all term that makes sure we wear the most responsible garments?
l I tend to use ‘sustainable’ as a catch-all term, but I don’t think there is one perfect phrase. ‘Ethical’ usually refers to an approach that focusses on human rights and social issues. ‘Sustainable’ refers to environmental impacts. ‘Green’ and ‘eco’ are sometimes used in the same way, too. ‘Conscious’ fashion is another broad term, but it’s about being mindful of the way garments are made. ‘Responsible’ emphasises taking accountability for your own contribution, whether you’re a business or a consumer.
Does this ring true: what’s good for our health is good for the Earth and the farmer?
l Totally! I find it odd that people don’t think of the chemicals hiding in their clothes in the same way they do about food or other substances that affect our bodies. Many care deeply about the welfare of the animals used for meat, but what about the welfare of the humans that toil, often for very little pay and in unsafe conditions, to make the clothes we wear?
Do the principles of food apply to fashion — must we grow and shop local?
lI don’t think we will ever go back to a fashion industry where everything is grown, manufactured and bought locally. However, I do believe that in the not-so-distant future we will see a more localised way of producing, purchasing and experiencing fashion: in the same way that craft beer and local microbreweries or local coffee micro-roasteries have become popular, especially in major urban centres. Fast, value fashion is relatively new to India, so I think now is the ideal time to raise awareness about social and environmental issues in that part of the industry.
Could you map the ideal fashion business process?
l I don’t believe there is one perfect process. The ideal future will encompass many solutions and different ways of working. These processes might look something like what professor Becky Earley from Chelsea College of Arts describes as “a synergistic network of cycles and open-loops which feed each other at multiple scales and speeds”. She describes how all large-volume factories would have disassembly units in which surplus garments can be regenerated, reused or upcycled into new products. The chemical reprocessing of materials would keep resources in infinite use.
Professor Earley, through her Centre for Circular Design, also considers how we might end up having multi-speed wardrobes where our closets would consist of both fast and slow garments. For example, some clothes are designed to be worn only a few times and are then recycled. Meanwhile, slower garments will continue to be designed to last for a long time. They will be made by hand, using age-old techniques or upcycled from pre-loved clothes.
8 WAYS TO SHOP RESPONSIBLY
- Buy one nice outfit instead of five cheap ones
- Investigate the label; look for quality materials
- Look for certifications such as Fair Trade, Fair Wear, GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard)
- Opt for natural or recycled textiles instead of polyester and nylon
- Support smaller independent fashion labels
- Donate your clothes only if you can’t swap with a friend
- Sick of the style? Add something new like a patch, fringe, embroidery or pom-poms
- Use unwanted textiles as cleaning cloths or rags
Are we doing anything right, when it comes to ethical fashion?
l Many big fashion companies are becoming more transparent about their supply chain practises, including publicly disclosing their suppliers. The Bangladesh Accord on Building & Fire Safety has been somewhat of an industry breakthrough, especially since it is legally binding for the companies that have signed up to it. Action, Collaboration, Transformation (ACT) is a new global framework that is bringing together trade unions, international brands, retailers and manufacturers for much needed sector-wide (rather than factory-by-factory) reform.
Many companies are investing in circular resources and technology, where the aim is to eradicate waste and keep materials in circulation in perpetuity.
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